Over 380 exhibiters placing wine in over 60 classes, judged by a panel of 16 full judges, 10 associates and organised by 33 stewards, a massive task of organization and concentration. I should have been overwhelmed by its diversity and greatness, but I have to be honest and say that I was generally under-whelmed by the overall style and quality of the wines that were on show.
The nature of the beast is that many of the leading lights of the Australian wine industry either refuse or cannot afford to show their wines, a problem that takes quite a bit of gloss off the whole show system. So you wont see the big Parker inspired, export only blockbusters, nor the super premiums from either large or boutique producers or those absolute gems like Giaconda or Castagna. What you are seeing is the heart of the current Australian wine industry and the show does indeed offer a unique insight into the current state of well being of this industry.
We still need to be reminded, from time to time, that the show system is for the winemaker not the consumer and is just one method of “raising the standard” of Australian winemaking via peer group assessment. Take for example the reportage in the Show Catalogue of the number of faulty wines that were submitted for judging. From VA, to Brett, oxidation, sulphides, advanced development and residual sugar, this points to an industry that still doesn’t fully understand the science and art of winemaking. Technical and clean yet characterless wines are dull and boring, but outright faulty wines can quite easily turn consumers off this valuable beverage.
But then again I’ve always have been a fussy git!
So what wines did the likes of Michael Hill-Smith, Nick Bulleid, Huon Hooke, Tim James, Iain Riggs et al praise at this years show?
For a start, commercial chardonnays in the under $20 class, where the judges felt that, “the wines were generally well-made, sound, clean and fresh but which in the main lacked the extra intensity and style required for medal awards”. Look out for the Grant Burge 2003 Summers Chardonnay, quite a mouth full of flavour and top gold. However in the open class, Chardonnay’s generally (2002 vintage and younger) copped a bit of criticism due to a reported lack of fruit intensity.
Semillon – they described it as a strong class with top two gold medals going to ‘97 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 and ’04 Grant Burge’s Barossa Vines, but also look out for the 02 Rufus Stone Belford and the amazing and this years show’s top gold: the1994 Tyrrell’s’ Vat 1 semillon – a truly awesome wine with the judges commenting, “A unique wine that is a pleasure to judge”.
Cabernet Sauvignon– now there’s a turn up, but they did temper their enthusiasm for the medal wines by saying that there were “too many sweet and simple wines”. Once again the Majella 2002 Cabernet topped the gold list. With older cabernets the judges were more critical, “slightly disappointing class with many wines lacking correct fruit ripeness and balance”, but then went on to give the ‘02 Chateau Reynella Reynell Cabernet an 18.8 gold!
For Australia’s now major grape variety, Shiraz, there was some mixed results with the judges pointing out that there were a lot of “tired wines of advanced maturity” particularly from the 2001 and 2000 vintages. However the standouts were the 2002 Blass Grey Label, Cimicky’s The Autograph (trophy at the Barossa Show as well) and gold winning cheappie, the ’02 Wyndham Estate Bin 555.
From what I could read into the judges comments, the 2003 vintage for Shiraz is the one to look out for, “fine and more elegant wines here” and for 2002 two offerings stood out, the 2002 Jamieson’s Run McShane’s Block and 03 Braydun Hill Hand Picked Shiraz, both which received top gold.
I was surprised to see that the important GSM open class 52 (blends any vintage, typically of shiraz, Grenache and Mouvedre and Shiraz and Viognier) was really quite small but noticed that the judging panel thought it, “ a strong class with most wines showing great flesh and balance” with the picks being the ‘03 Yering Station Reserve Shiraz Viognier.
And finally, the ever-perennial favourites, sweet white fortified dessert wines, Muscats, Tokay etc, always get a big Adelaide Show pat on the back, and so they should. This year the big scores went to Morris’ Old Premium Liqueur Muscat getting an excellent, almost show stopping 19pts, closely followed by the Seppelt GR113 Rare Rutherglen Muscat, with the judges commenting, “an extraordinary class of great Australian classics”.
Chair of judges for the Royal Adelaide Wine Show, Mr Michael Hill-Smith was reported in The Weekend Australian to have said that shiraz/viognier blends were a possible future direction for the Australian wine industry, and based on the performance of the 2003 Yering Station Reserve, I can see why.
But, and a big but, the industry still has a long way to go with this innovative blend of red and white varieties, as many of these types came in for some quite candid criticism, with the judging panel remarking that, “Viognier is not a magic wand!” And from what I tasted, over-ripeness and out of balance wines were the main problems of this class of wine.
Overall, most of the white wine classes came off second best from the judges, especially unwooded chardonnay’s (this wasn’t any surprise), Sauvignon Blancs and unwooded white blends being described as either lacking fruit depth and length or just “plain, simple, flavourless”.
Special mention was made of 2004 vintage Rieslings: “The 04’s were a disappointment – many wines with yeasty VA and lacking fruit depth”. In fact the general impression I got was that most 2004 whites, remember it was a very hot vintage, were generally seen as lacklustre. However, hats off to two sound gold medal winners, Brain Barry’s 2004 Jud’s Hill Riesling (currently retailing as low as $13 a bottle) which topped its class while just pipping the Lehmann 03 Reserve Riesling by 0.1 of a point!
The Rose class, a fast growing segment of the retail sector, were quite lamentable: “many wines far too sweet!” I suppose we, the consumers are just not taking them too seriously so neither does the wine producer. And talking of too much sugar, this is exactly what the two classes of sparkling reds were described.
And talking of laments, it’s probably best to be careful when choosing any wine from either the 2000 or 2001 vintage. Many tired, over developed reds and whites were found with these vintages.
While the single varietal Cabernet (thankfully) and Shiraz classes received good to very good reports, Merlot was roundly condemned by the panel, “many green herbal wines lacking palate weight” and another comment from class 43, “Two words - un-inspiring! Low fruit character plus excess sugar does not a Merlot make”. Blends, commercial or otherwise and other varieties excluding Grenache, also came in for some stick, with the common thread being plain wines lacking fruit and full of faults, in one premium class, Class 49 Blends, 2000 vintage and older, “very poor class of stale, plain wines”.
And finally a departing remark from the judges regarding Class 34, Semillon, 2001 Vintage & Older, “More than one-third recalled! This variety needs alternative closures”. This is where the Tyrrell’s 1994 Vat 1 came from!
Brown Bros Patricia Sparkling Pinot Chardonnay – full and rich with distinctive aged base material adding complexity
Tyrrell’s 1994 and 1997 Vat 1 Semillon – it’s just so very long-lived and very seductive with age.
Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2003 – to me, it’s all about texture, mouthfeel and exotic appeal and this wine delivers all.
Oakridge 2003 Chardonnay – tight and zesty and fine oak handling, certainly not overblown, a treat.
Paringa Estate 2003 Estate Pinot Noir – very serious, with earthiness and fine grain tannins.
Yering Station 2003 Reserve Shiraz Viognier – a very fine example where the Viognier doesn’t dominate the nose or palate – spicy and very enticing. This is one winery to watch.
Morris Old Premium Muscat – weight, texture, complexity and what flavour!
Angove’s St Agnes 30 Year Old Show Brandy – Super spirit – be warned that the art of high quality brandy distillation in Australia will soon end, so drink up!
Here’s a list of the major trophy’s and who won them:
The Adelaide Trophy for Most Outstanding Red Or White In Show
Tyrrell’s 1994 Vat 1 Semillon
The Malaysia Airlines Prize for the Winemaker of The Most Outstanding Red Or White Wine In Show
Andrew Spinaze, Senior Winemaker, Tyrrell’s Vineyards
The Max Schubert Trophy for Best Red Wine In Show
Wolf Blass 2002 Grey Label Shiraz
The F Miller & Co Trophy for Best White Wine In Show
Tyrrell’s 1994 Vat 1 Semillon
The Vintage Cellars Trophy for Best Sparkling Wine In Show
Brown Bros 2000 Patricia Pinot Chardonnay
Best Red Under $20 – New Eden Wines 2002 Eden Valley Shiraz
Best White Under $20 – Grant Burge 2003 Summers Chardonnay
Best Cabernet Sauvignon In Show – Majella 2002 Majella cabernet
Best Pinot In Show – Paringa Estate 2002 Pinot Noir
Best red Blend In Show – Yering Station Reserve Shiraz Viognier
Best Brandy In Show – St Agnes 30 Year Old Show Brandy
Best Sherry In Show – McWilliams Show Reserve Oloroso
Best Port In Show – Grant Burge 30 Year Old Tawny Port
Best Sweet White Dessert Including Muscat Type- Morris Old Premium Liqueur Muscat
Best Medium Dry Or Sweet White Wine In Show – Miranda 2002 Golden Botrytis
Best Chardonnay In Show – Oakridge Estate 2003 Oakridge Chardonnay
Best Riesling In Show – Brian Barry 2004 Jud’s Hill Riesling
Best Semillon In Show - Tyrrell’s 1994 Vat 1 Semillon
Best Sauvignon Blanc In Show – Hamelin Bay 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Best Dry White Blend In Show – Houghton 1995 Museum Release White Burgundy
So there you have it!
Cheers,
Graham Wright
graham@oddbins.com.au